Then we flew to The Netherlands for a week outside EINDHOVEN. Another world from Croatia. We began with the
Van Abbe,
a museum of modern and contemporary art in central Eindhoven on the
bank of the Dommel River. Established in 1936, the museum is named after
its founder, Henri van Abbe, collector of Modern Art. Here is some of
what we saw there:
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Haymaking by Kazimir Malevich, 1928-29 |
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Woman with hat by Henri Matisse, 1905 |
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Augustusrucke, Dresden by Oskar Kokoschka, 1923 |
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Civilian Defense by Dan Petermank, 2007 |
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Listening Figure by Juan Munoz |
About an hour south of Eindhoven, and just east of MAASTRICHT, is the
Ronald McDonald House in the town of VALKENBURG AAN DE GEUL. This is significant because it was designed by
Hundertwasser and completed in 2007, seven years after his passing. Another masterpiece.
No interest in the show at the
Bonnefanten museum, so with no other art attraction in Maastricht, we opted to walk around.
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Relatie by Sjra Schoffelen, 1987 |
Other side trips included one to TILBURG, where we found the
Museum de Pont,
a former factory space with lots of small rooms with doors, lots of big
open space, lots of twists and turns. And contemporary art.
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Sky Mirror (for Hendrik) by Anish Kapoor, 2017 |
Examples by
Ai Weiwei and
Howard Hodgkin, gave the collection some international appeal.
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Grapes 2010 by Ai Weiwei, 2010. |
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Yellow Sky by Howard Hodgkin, 2009-2010 |
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Learning about Russian Music by Howard Hodgkin, 1999 |
Vincent van Gogh lived in Tilburg from 1863-66, where he went to
school and was allegedly taught to paint. The house is marked and there
is a special couch outside.
CLICK HERE for a few more pictures from Tilburg
And then there was Eindhoven. A vibrant city with Art all around. Well, Art and other things:
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Flying Pins by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen, 2000 |
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Expansive by Toon Slegers, 2013 |
Then we began our time in Belgium, beginning with a stay outside ATH, in
Arbre. Walking around Ath, an ancient city surrounded by a square moat,
we discovered
Triennale de l'Art et du Végétal. This was the
fourth edition of a show featuring art installations by eleven artists
utilizing mostly natural materials all over the city. Such as:
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Semences by Jean-Yves Bonnaudet & Bruno Magda |
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Arbre votif renverse by Theo Ronse |
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New World by Choi Hyesu |
Side trips included one to the hippodrome outside MONS, where we saw a lot of jumping.
And a visit to LESSINES, which is not only the birthplace of
René Magritte,
there was some sort of Art show going on involving a group of artists
called "Less'Art." We visited a few venues and Marie made some
purchases.
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by Patrick Delvingt |
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Bénédicte Meekers |
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by Magali Rousseau |
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Donkeymotion Projects by Valentin Kanellopoulos |
And then there was this fabulous band playing in the doorway of
Centre Culturel René Magritte.
And a little bit more of Lessines:
We were in GHENT on a day filled with festivals, most of which we could
not find. But it was Saturday, so there were Bachelorettes and the
Belgian team was playing for third place in the
World Cup. Here are a few shots:
We visited the
Fondation Folon in LA HULPE. Belgian artist
Jean-Michel Folon installed over five hundred art works in the
Ferme du Château de La Hulpe,
just twenty minutes outside Brussels. Folon opened the renovated 1833
farmhouse as a museum in 2000, five years before he died.
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The Symbol by Folon, 1988 |
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L'Espace by Folon, 1982 |
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Femme-Oiseau by Folon, 1990 |
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Marine by Folon, 1998 |
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L'Homme Qui Plantait des Arbres by Folon, 1982 |
And we dropped in at the
Hergé Museum in OTTIGNEIES-LOOUYAIN-LA-NEUVE.
Georges Prosper Remi, known by the pen name Hergé created the universally popular
The Adventures of Tintin and the museum is a delight.
We ventured up to BRUGES to see the Triennial (May 5 - Sept 16). The theme:
Liquid City. Most pieces, which were largely architectural, were in, on, or next to the canals. We did our best to find them all:
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Infinity by Peter van Dressche Atelier4 |
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Brug (The Kissing Bridge) by Jaroslaw Kozakie |
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Selgascano Pavilion by Selgascano |
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Lanchals by John Powers |
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Skyscraper (the Bruges Whale) by StudioKCA |
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The Floating Island by OBBA |
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Acheron I by Renato Nicolodi |
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Bloom by Bloom Games, 2012. |
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Fountain of Life by Shahroudy Farmanfarmaian |
CLICK HERE for a few more pics from this part of Belgium.
Our base of operations moved to a farm compound in a field in POTTES. I
should say "former" farm, because although there are donkeys residing
there, in addition to the main house, there are now a music studio, a
stage for performance, a forge with two anvils, a clay studio with two
wheels, and the donkeys are "mini." I could go on and on about
Ferme du Ruisseau,
but this is an Art blog. I will say that, together with its proximity
to the River Scheldt and the bike paths on either side, this was a most
extraordinary stay.
We visited the city of TOURNAI the first few days we were there. Less
than twenty kilometers south of the farm (half-hour by car, one hour by
bicycle), we found this city of about 77,000 fascinating.
Known as
Tornacum, in Roman times, it is also called DORNIC by Belgium's Flemish residents. The Scheldt runs right through its center.
Their five-spired cathedral is its most prestigious building. Construction on
Notre Dame of Tournai began in 1146, and they're still working on it. I might suggest that the best building is the
Musée des Beaux-Arts which was designed by famous Art-Nouveau architect,
Victor Horta.
Regardless, there are several other museums, and lots of fun buildings,
as well as generous pedestrian areas leading to the riverfront and its
gothic gate. And look as hard as we may, a piece of litter was not to be
found on any street. Let us begin with the
Musée des Beaux-Arts.
Since it was 1928 when the museum opened, Horta had shifted his focus
from Art-Nouveau and the design represents a transition to Art Deco. The
only museum he ever designed, Horta died just a few months later. Here
are a few shots from our visit:
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Argenteuil by Edouard Manet, 1874 |
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Jeune femme accoudee (Marie Valette, amie du peintre) by Louis Anquetin, 1890 |
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Oliviers a Montmajour by Vincent Van Gogh, 1888 |
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La greve du bas butin a Honfleur (Marine) by George Seurat, 1886 |
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Portrait feminin by Armand Rassenfosse |
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La dame en gris by Jean Winance |
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Perimele (Ondine on la nymphe de Capri) by Leonce Legendre, 1864 |
Outside we found a statue honoring local painter
Paul Gallait and later found one dedicated to Tournai-resident
Rogier Van Der Weyden.
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Paul Gallait |
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Vieux Marché aux Poteries - monument à Roger de le Pasture dit "Van der Weyden" by Marcel Wolfers, 1936 |
We were in Tournai for
Belgium National Day (21 July) and celebrated with the locals.
And we got
Le Clovis, a local spicy cake named for the first king of the Franks.
Le Quenoy was recommended as a good place to get one. The shop was beautifully Nouveau and very near the train station.
Here are some more shots from around Tournai:
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Cathedral interior |
Across the river from Pottes, in SPIERE-HELKIJN they celebrate the arts with
Kunstzomer in de Leiestreek,
four months of arts activities around the area. One venue, that day,
was an old pumphouse and facility for the old (1935) swimming pool
overlooking the river, that had been recently fixed up for a show of art
by
Carlos Cauluwier.
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Carlos Cauluwier |
Next to it was the ruin of the huge public swimming pool where there was an installation.
On the other side of the village is
Kunstkerk Bossuit, an arts
venue born from an old church. Without the roof or windows. The design
of the terrazzo floor recalls the church that was destroyed during the
war. The space is used for a variety of events. Black & white photo
enlargements by
Tom Linsteron were hung on the exposed walls for us to see.
Back at the ferme, Anne-Mie (our hostess) threw a couple of plates in
her studio so that Marie could paint on them the following day.
We went to the Belgian shore at MIDDELKERK, where we found a few pieces of sculpture:
The is
Beeldenparc Beaufort (Beaufort Sculpture Park) which, in 2018, celebrated its sixth edition with sculptures all around the region.
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I can hear it by Ivars Drulle |
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Caterpillar 5bis by Wim Delvoye, 2004 |
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Olnetop by Nick Ervinck |
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Agent 212 by Mathias De Wolf |
And just down the coast in OOSTDUINKERKE watched men trawl for shrimp
from the backs of enormous Belgian draft horses, as well as women doing
the same but while walking through the surf on their own two feet.
There are sculptures:
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Cloned Paardenvisser by William Sweetlove |
We drove to TOURCOING in search of the
Muba-Eugene Leroy Museum,
which, unfortunately, was closed for three months to set up new show.
So we continued on to BETHUNE, over the border in France.
A woman there told me that, with the temps nearing 100 degrees, it was
the hottest since 1943. And there wasn't much to see, besides the
Art-Deco
Grand-Place which was rebuilt in 1923 after it
was completely destroyed by German bombing during WWI. The Belfry was
about all that remained.
Similarly, when
Saint Vaast's was rebuilt in the twenties, stylish mosaics were included.
We continued in France to DOUAI and found a free parking space across the street from the
Musée des Beaux-Arts. A neat old place, admission was just over four euros for both of us.
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Portrait of a Woman by Paolo Caliari, dit Veronese, 1560-1565 |
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The Young Man and the Old Woman by Hendrick Goltzius |
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Young girl with a Dove by Jean-Baptiste Greuze |
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C'est n'etait pas mon temps... by de Patricia Zurini |
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La Nymphe des Eaux by Charles-Henri-Joseph Cordier |
More of Douai:
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Selene by Norbert Treca, 1994. |
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Field Day 2 by Barry Flanagan, 1987 |
We returned to France for our visit to LILLE, just forty minutes from Pottes. Destination:
Palais des Beaux-Arts.
One of the first art museums built in France, under Napoleon, the Palais is one of the largest in the country.
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Berger Landais by Rosa Bonheur |
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Vanite by Alfred Agache, 1890 |
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Les Vaches by Vincent Van Gogh, 1890 |
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Le Silence by Odilon Redon, c 1895-1900 |
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Dans l'atelier, la pose du modele by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec |
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Berthe Morisot a l'eventail by Edouard Manet, 1874. |
LaM is the
Musée d'art moderne d'art contemporain et d'art brut.
It began as the collection of Roger Dutilleul which was then added to
by his nephew and heir, leading to the current museum. Outside are a few
nice sculptures including two by
Calder and one we liked which was done by
Picasso.
Flanagan contributed a horse on a sidewalk and a pair of rabbits (inside museum).
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Guillotine pour huit by Alexander Calder, 1963 |
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Femme aux bras ecartes by Pablo Picasso, 1962 |
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Between Fiction and Fact by Richard Deacon, 1992 |
Inside were a few true paintings of modern art with too many Picasso, lots of Leger,
Braque, and Modig. Fun museum with strange layout that worked (addition designed
by Ms. Manuelle Gautrand) included lots of Brut art, a couple of rooms
of contemporary, and galleries of art from recycled material.
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La Roche-Guyon by Georges Braque, summer 1909 |
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Le Mecanicien by Fernand Leger, 1918 |
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Femme lippue by Kees van Dongen, 1909 |
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La Danse I & 2 by André Derain, c 1906 |
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Nu assis a la chemise by Amedeo Modigliani, 1917 |
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The Boxers by Barry Flanagan, 1985 |
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Totem women à tête zoomorphe by Theo Wiesen, 1972-77 |
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Architecture inachevee by A.C.M. |
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Armée des Indes avec éléphant,c 1976 |
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no title by Marie-Rose Lortet |
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Site aleatoire avec deux personnages (F77) by Jean Dubuffet, 1982 |
And, of course, a few pictures from around town:
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Porte d'Arras, 14th cent |
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In line for frites. |
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Ceramique Colliot by Hector Guimard |
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Porte de Grand |
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Gare de Lille-Flanders, formerly Gare du Nord of Paris. |
We enjoyed an adventure in MELDERT-AALST at the
Belgium Paardenprijskamp (translates to Horse Prize Camp). This was a national competition for Belgian draft horses.
On the abutting field, the
49th International Pikkeling Festival
began in the afternoon. There were displays of tractors and other farm
equipment, demonstrating artists like lace tatter, basket maker, etc.,
but we found this charming recreation of harvesting grain in the old
days.
In KORTRIJK, in Flanders, they were playing the
City Game,
which involved young people of different age groups to interact with
artistic installations all around town. Actually it was pretty
confusing, but here are a few shots from around town:
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Modified Social Bench #02 by Jeppe Hein |
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Invisible Forces - all over town -- by Dane Mitchell |
Last shots from Pottes:
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Newly born Agnes (pronounced "aanyes") and mother Iris |
CLICK HERE for a few more pics from this part of Belgium:
Time to leave our nest in Pottes and head east to SOMME LEUZE, where we had a very nice apartment.
End of Part Two
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