Europe 2017 - Part 3

I took a train east to historic ARLES.


And while Arle's history goes back to Roman times and beyond, I was interested in just one resident: Vincent Van Gogh.  Vincent lived and worked here from February 1888 and May 1889 and did around 300 drawings and paintings during that time.

Self-portrait by Vincent Van Gogh, 1887

First stop was the Fondation Vincent Van Gogh Arles where they not only have a small exhibit of Van Gogh paintings, they featured a big show of Alice Neel.

Los Angeles and There is Another Way by Rebecca Warren, 2013 and 2111

Calm and Exaltation is the name of the show of VVG works from the collection of Swiss industrialist Emil Buhrle.  There were seven pieces shown (including the self-portrait above).

The Weeders, Saint Remy de Provence by Vincent Van Gogh, 1890


Alice Neel (1900-84) was known as a portrait painter with the subjects being friends, relatives and others close to her.  The exhibition was quite big, I thought, but fit the atmosphere.

Jackie Curtis and Ritta Redd by Alice Neel, 1970
Jose by Alice Neel, 1936


There is a "Circuit of Van Gogh" in Arles which identifies locations where VVG did paintings.  I found a few and had a thorough tour of the old city looking for the others.

 
Cafe de Nuit (closed)

Other shots from Arles:

Roman Amphitheatre, 90 A.D.
Javier Mendez Reyes

Between Arles and the Mediterranean Sea is a wonderful place called The Camargue.  Known as the "Mouths of the Rhone," this marshy plain was designated a "Wetland of International Importance."  It is also home to wild buffalo and white horses, many of which can be rented to ride on the beach.

Understandably, Van Gogh and many other artists came here to paint.

(not my shot)

SAINTES-MARIES-DE-LA-MER is the largest town in the region and I was there for the annual Gypsy Procession for which gypsies allegedly come from the four corners of Europe to attend.  On the previous day there was a procession for Sara, the patron saint of Gypsies.  But the only evidence of Gypsies I saw was a small handful of wooden caravans parked next to the beach.


I got there literally just in time for the Procession of the Saints Mary Jacobe and Mary Salomer (patron saints of the town) as it proceeded through the streets, across the beach, and into the sea.


On the following day there was a demonstration of local culture at the seaside bull-fighting arena.


I had the early bus to myself on the way back to Arles, as a flock of storks passed overhead.  From there I took a train to Marseilles.

As France's second city and largest port, MARSEILLES has lots to offer, but I did not feel overwhelmed.  Everything was walkable.  If you like to walk.  I began at the Museum of Fine Arts.

The building was completed in 1869 with Fine Art museum on the left and Natural History on the right.


Not my usual haunt, I went there to see two murals by Puvis de Chavannes.

Marseille-Gateway to the East by Puvis de Chavannes, 1869
Marseille-A Greek Colony by Puvis de Chavanes, 1869

Also found a couple of other pieces I liked.  These are by Adolphe Monticelli and while undated, he died in 1886.


The only place to see Modern Art is the Musee Cantini.  Though the building went up in 1694, Jules Cantini, a sculptor, did not move in until 1888.  He donated it to the city in 1916 and has been a museum since 1936.

The majority of Art was Contemporary:

As far as the eye can see by Lawrence Weiner, 1988
Il rosa de maggio by Giuseppe Caccavale, 2008-09

But there was a selection of Modern as well.
Monument au oiseaux by Max Ernst, 1927
Poichali by Victor Brauner, 1946


Took a boat down the coast to L'ESTAQUE, a place once home to artists such as Paul C√©zanne, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Raoul Dufy and Georges Braque.  It was never the same after they built the arsenic factory there.  Hardly a trace of what was, but the boatride was fun.

Port of Marseille
Chateau d'If (of Count of Monte Cristo fame)

Pictures from around Marseille.

Opera noir by Christophe Berdaguer and Marie Pejus, 2013

From the Panier, the oldest part of the city.


Another train took me to CAGNES-SUR-MER where I stayed the next week while exploring the Nice region.  While CSM has extensive beaches and Art:

Le Banc de Poissons by Sylvain Subervie, 2010

Il n'y a plus d'obstacles by Sacha Sosno, 2007
 
It also has a center and a medieval hilltop community where Amadeo Modigliani stayed in 1918.


As well as Pierre Auguste Renoir's home from 1907 until his death in 1919.


CSM is located midway between Nice and Antibes, and south of ST. PAUL-DE-VENCE, home of Fondation Maeght, where I went the next day.  Inaugurated in 1964, this museum was born of the friendships between Paris dealer Aime Maeght and many of the artistic luminaries of the day.  The Fondation has one of the largest collections of Art in Europe, though little on display.

Les Renforts by Alexander Calder, 1963-64
Statue pour un jardin by Ossip Zadkine, 1965
Sagesse by Damien Cabanes, 2002

 While the featured artist was A.R. Penck,

The Battlefield by A.R. Penck, 1989

There was other Art to see.

Jeune fille s'evadant by Joan Miro, 1968
Project de foulard by Alberto Giacometti, 1960
La Vie by Marc Chagall, 1964


It wasn't a long walk to the old walled city of Saint-Paul-de-Vence.

Burial place of Marc Chagall

I had to take a bus to VENCE.  And while the museum was closed when I got there, it was a fun place to walk around.  They even had a spot painted by Chaim Soutine:

Chaim Soutine

After lunch I walked to the Chapelle du Rosaire du Vence  where Henri Matisse designed, during the last years of his life, what he declared to be his masterpiece.  He said it took four years of exclusive energy to complete the project which, to my eye, is rather simple and plain.  There was opposition from the Church and from Picasso. Photos were not allowed of the chapel, but this was legal.


The following day I took a train through Nice to MONTE CARLO.  But I found all the museums closed (between shows) and the sculpture garden inaccessible (grand prix racing the weekend before), so I had to find Art where I could.

Fraternita by Sauro Cavallini, 1999
La Danse des Etoiles  by Christian Peschke
Ulysses by Anna Chromy
 Sphere Enigma by Gianfranco Meggiato

On the way back I jumped off the train early and paid a quick visit to VILLEFRANCH-SUR-MER.



We visited NICE a few years ago, including the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art and the Musee des Beaux Arts.  So it was another opportunity to walk around and see what I could find.

Loch Ness Monster by Niki de Saint-Phalle, 1992
Stabile Mobile by Alexander Calder, 1970
part of Conversation a Nice by Jaume Plensa, 2007
Henri Auer Patisserie Confiserie, 1820
 
Ligne indeterminee by Bernar Venet, 1984-85
Miles Davis by Niki de Saint Phalle, 1999
La Chaise by Sabine Geraudie, 2014

Next train to Lyon.

Once the capital of Gaul and birthplace of the emperor Claudius, LYON is now best known as the home of Interpol and video-game designers.  Then there is the Musee des Beaux Arts.  Unlike many others in France with the same name, this museum offered some Modern as well as older forms of Art.

There was sculpture:


Odalisque by James Pradier, 1841
La Prisonniere by Ossip Zadkine, 1943

More murals by Puvis de Chavannes:

 
Some interesting older stuff:

Nereide, Triotn et monstre marin, Roman, 2nd century
Les Manageurs de Ricotta by Vincenzo Campi, 1580

And some favorite artists:

La Barque rouge by Odilon Redon, 1905
Fillette aux pasteques Etude pour Le Marche au Minho by Sonia Delaunay, 1915
Jeune Femme en blanc, fond rouge by Henri Matisse, 1946
Nave nave mahana (Jour delicieux) by Paul Gauguin, 1896.JPG


There are lots of pedestrian shopping areas in Lyon, with everything from massed street bands to bachelorettes.

L'Homme de la liberte by Cesar, 1992

The next day in  STRASBOURG. My apartment was practically across the street from the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, so I began there.  Even better, it was the first Sunday, so admission was free!

Oedipe et le Sphinx by Francois Emile Ehrmann, 1903
Femme nue dormant au bord de l'eau by Felix Vallotton, 1921
Main mysterieuse-Portrait de femme by Francis Picabia, c1938-42

Several unusual paintings by Victor Brauner.

Chimere by Victor Brauner, 1939
La Parole by Victor Brauner, 1938
L'Animal moderne solidifiant l'autre temps by Victor Brauner, 1942

And more.  None of the Contemporary was of interest.


In 1988, U.N.E.S.C.O. made the historic center a World Heritage site and it is easy to see why.


The Museum of Fine Arts is located in the old Palais Rohan.  Built in the 1730s it has hosted the likes of Louis XV, Marie Antoinette, Napoleon and Josephine Bonaparte, and Charles X.  Now the first two floors are filled with pictures.

Polyptyque de la Vanite et de la Redemption by Hans Memling, c 1490
Venus et l'Amour by anon
La Vierge consolatrice by William Bouguereau, 1877
Jeanne d'Arc embrassant l'epee de la Delivrance by Dante Rossetti, 1863

One more train took me across the German border into STUTTGART.  Located in the fertile Neckar valley, the city is home to Mercedes, Porsche, Bosch, and Daimler.  They also have Art museums.

I began with the Kunstemuseum also known as "The Cube."  Out front is this Calder.

Crinkly avec disque rouge by Alexander Calder, 1973

Inside was Contemporary art.

by Josef Albers
PYR 522 by Hans Jorg Glattfelder, 1939

And Otto Dix.

Drei Weiber by Otto Dix, 1926


The more you walk, the more sculpture you find.

Lobochevsky by Mark di Suvero, 1988
Frauenbuste by Jurgen Goertz, 1993
Denkpartner by Hans-Jorg Limbach, 1980



There were multiple obstacles, but I finally found Staatsgalerie Stuttgart.  Originally opened in 1843, there is Art from all periods to see.

Two Girls in the Reeds by Otto Mueller, c 1920
Striding into the Sea by Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, 1912
The Prophet by Egon Schiele, 1911
Nude Girl on a Red Cloth by Edvard Munch, 1902
Female Nude Reclining on a White Pillow by Amedeo Modigliani, c 1917


I took an airplane to BERLIN for my next stop.  I was there on the invitation of a couple I met in Crete.  It was my plan to visit the new Barberini Museum in nearby Potsdam, but discovered the inaugural show was down and there was nothing to see.  And we had seen most of the art museums in the city on a previous trip.  One new one was the Berlinische Galerie.  Housed in a former glass warehouse, the collections include many Secessionist painters, but there was mostly photos and contemporary pieces on display.  There was noticeably more woman artists being shown here than usual.

Flute Player by Julie Wolfthorn, c 1900
Landscape, Painting I by Jacoba van Heemskerck, c 1914
Self-portrait in Front of Friedrichsruher Strasse by Lotte Laserstein, c 1928
Die Journalisten by Hannah Hoch, 1925



Music Hall Girls & Valeska Gert by Jeanne Mammen, 1928-29


I was taken on a bicycle tour of Berlin, which was great but didn't get all the pictures I would have liked.


We stopped at the Museum Berggruen in the Charlottenburg neighborhood.  I had been here before, but appreciated the revisit.  I learned that Berggruen was a long-time collector and dealer who at one point decided to get rid of everything and just concentrate of four artists: Picasso, Matisse, Alberto Giacometti and Paul Klee.

Silenus in Dancing Company by Pablo Picasso, 1933
Blue Nude Skipping by Henri Matisse, 1952
Red Girl with Yellow Bowl-Shaped Hat by Paul Klee, 1919

They had work by other artists, as well.

The Acrobat by Marc Chagall, 1967
Young Woman with her Hair Unfastened by Paul Cezanne, c 1873-74
Small Mobile by Alexander Calder

Other shots from around the city:

Dreiheit by Brigitte and Martin Matschinsky-Denninghoff, 1993
Berlin's largest mural, 2009


Two sections of the Berlin Wall.


Time for a train west to MUNSTER for the 5th Skulptur Projekte M√ľnster.  While only the fifth incarnation, exhibitions began here in 1977 and are held every ten years.  Past luminaries have included Claes Oldenburg, Henry Moore, Eduardo Chillida, and Richard Serra.

Large Vertebrae by Henry Moore, 1968-69
Giant Pool Balls by Claes Oldenburg, 1977
I found later that the curators for this year's offering purposely emphasized other media than traditional sculpture.  Things like performance, audio, video, photographs, other 2D.  Though there was occasional 3D.

untitled by Sany, 2017
HellYeahWeFuckDie by Hito Steyeri, 2016
A Work in Situ by John Knight, 2017
Nietzsche's Rock by Justin Matherly, 2017

After I tired of searching, I went inside to see what the LWL-Museum fur Kunst und Kultur had to offer.  I found artworks from old religious stuff to contemporary, with some Modern in between.  Problem was, the security man in the Modern section thought my camera's aiming light was a flash and made me stop taking pictures.  I got a few before the incident.

Adam and Eve by Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1525
Self-portrait with white Pearl Necklace by Paula Modersohn-Becker, 1906
Dunes in the Evening by Lyonel Feininger, 1927


Time for my last stop, GRONINGEN, Nederland.  The largest city in northern Nederland, it is also a university town with everything you expect from a Dutch city.

Ultra by Sylvia B., 2005
Traffic by Willem Reijers, 1959
Het Peerd van Ome Loeks by Jan de Baat, 1959


grocery store
The Groninger Museum featured a whimsical building filled with a variety of Art.  From old stuff:

Rudolf Agricola by Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1443-1485
The Garden of the Vicarage in Nuenen in spring by Vincent Van Gogh, 1884

To newer things:

Madonna 6 by Christie van der Haak, 1984
Christ and the Lamb by Jeff Koons, 1988

But the biggest display was for the artists of De Ploegg (The Plow). Founded in 1918 by several young artists in order to facilitate exhibitions, several Modern styles were evident.  When an ill Jan Wiegers went to Davos, Switzerland for a cure, he met leading German Expressionist, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner.  He shared what he had learned with his fellow artists.

Jan Wiegers by Johan Dijkstra, c 1927
Johan Dijkstra by Jan Wiegers, c 1926
Seated Nude by Jan Wiegers, 1925
Girl with Child by Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, 1919


A few last shots.

10  Foal by Wladimir de Vries, 1951
Dirty Beak by Hans Mes, 1984
All-Women road race

And that's the end. Ten weeks of Art.

1 comment:

nnnortledorf said...

As usual great photos Rusty! enjoyed them!